Do Many (Most? All? Few?) Restaurants Do This?

Restaurant workers dining together before their shift. Collioure, France

Recently, I was going through some photos of my most recent trip to Collioure, and I came across this one. It shows the view out the window of my apartment, which is of a small square across the street in which a casual restaurant sets up shop all summer.

I couldn’t remember why I took it. Then I looked closely and remembered what struck me. Every morning, I see the restaurant’s employees setting up for the day: arranging the tables, wiping them down, placing the cutlery, napkins, and glasses on the table…

And then, they sit down to a meal together. Every day, at about 11:15 (the restaurant opens at noon). The chef brings out what is likely the employee’s meal—usually something the restaurant serves, like mussel and fries and a big salad, and they eat together, family style, in the open air; I hear them talking and laughing, and sometimes there’s a small carafe of wine involved. A few minutes before the restaurant opens, the barman brings out a round of espresso for everyone.

I’ve noticed this often in France. In fact, if you happen to arrive at a restaurant before it’s open, you’ll often see the waiters sitting in the dining room or on the terrace, enjoying a meal together before the service starts.

It made me wonder how often our restaurants offer such a pleasant, convivial setting for their workers. I can tell you that no restaurant I ever worked in offered anything of the sort. Employee meals were eaten in a hurry, usually by oneself on a break. Or, if we did eat together, it was quickly and without much joy, usually in a windowless, cinderblock breakroom near the dishroom. Rarely in the dining room.

Maybe it’s not practical, but I can’t help but think what a difference it would make to have a chance to share a meal with colleagues before each night’s service begins. If you get a chance to partake in the pleasures of the table, you’re more likely to want to pass them on to those who come to your tables.