I’ll never forget the first time I tasted Soave. It was 1984. I was in the lounge of Windows on the World, the restaurant at the top of the World Trade Center’s north tower.
My date had ordered a bottle of Soave, a white Italian wine I’d never heard of. After a sip or two, I was smitten. What was this wine? I’d never tasted anything like it.
My enthusiasm, however, did not impress my date. “What’s the big deal?” he asked. “It’s just your average bottle of Soave.”
Something else, however, was going on: I suspect that was the moment that marked my passage from the flatly sweet wines of my early drinking days (Blue Nun and the like) and into the realm of dry wines. Previously, all dry wines simply tasted sour to me. I didn’t know wine could be so crisp, refreshing and elegant.
Throughout the ’80s, Soave was nearly everywhere; then, suddenly, it all but disappeared. The wine cognoscenti declared it “boring,” questioned its mass-market appeal (and, let’s face it, its mass-market production), and the rest of us moved on.
Recently, however, I tasted Pieropan 2014 Soave ($20), and I remembered why Soave had once captivated me so. There it was — that crisp elegance and more: I loved the way it tasted dry at first sip, then fruity on the mid-palate, then once again refreshingly dry on the finish, with a pleasing minerality throughout. Conveniently, its light body also makes it a great wine for spring and summer.
As I’ve often said, my kind of wines aren’t everyone’s kind of wines. But if, in the past, I’ve led you to a good bottle, you might want to take a look at this one too. Cheers!
Other examples of my kind of wine:
P.S.: This post is part of an occasional series called, “My Kind of Wine,” in which I detail a great wine that I’ve found. What makes this different than all the other wine recommendations out there? Hopefully, you’ll get to know my tastes, and you’ll know whether my tastes jibe with yours. Rather than reviewing for everyone, I’m reviewing for those of use who like a certain style of food-friendly, Old World wines. Also read my disclosures about wine samples and such, if this interests you.Share